My cousin had one of those little 50s. One time whilst fucking around in his shop, I drew the short straw and had to go on a beer run. I had two choices, 1) walk the six blocks to the store and pack all the beer back (which I didn't want to do, I'm lazy) or 2) ride the 50 to the store and haul the beer back in a fraction of the time. I chose the 50 but but I wasn't allowed to take it to the store unless I wore a coon skin cap, that was his rule. I turned a lot of heads on the way back, 30 pack of Miller Highlife in my lap and a coon tail flapping in the breeze behind me.
tefl... trying to make my gauge cluster smaller to better fit the look of my bike now...bike wont run with out the cluster being plugged in... only the tach , indicators and current gear postion work... any suggestions
Honestly I'm not sure. I'd literally have to jam my nose in there and take a gander. Off the top of my head I'd say don't worry about looks, just be happy with what's working and go from there. I'm assuming its all digital, right? In that case the luddite in me says ditch all that and find analog systems to replace it. That's probably not possible though since your bike is so new.
quote:Originally posted by bacidath its an 87... all that computer stuff though...
I thought it was a later model than that. And your right, that cluster is just fucking huge.
I don't really know how to approach it. Being that it is all electrical it would be a nightmare to try and find aftermarket stuff to replace it all.
The only thought I can come up with is to keep the cluster but build a mounting bracket that moves it from it's current position down to a lower point over the handlebar. What is it that's mounted under just above the tank? Keyswitch and the like? Could any of that be positioned elsewhere on the bike more out of the way? Perhaps you could add small brackets extending off the sides of the cluster and mount that stuff to the sides of it or maybe out on the handlebars someplace. The keyswitch could even be mounted on the frame somewhere but if your like me I like to be able to see it. (I've had keys jump out after hitting a bump and it was nice to see it fly. It made circling back to find them easier and that would be impossible if you never saw where they jumped out at.)
That's really the only thing I can come up with outside of loading a catapult fulla cash and throwing it at the problem until it disappears.
And the bike is fucking awesome. Seriously, it's nice.
quote:Originally posted by retroguy_fawkes Wasn't really riding, but I was shoeless. Fuck it, around the house. No shoes.
Tell the truth. Here in TN we only wear shoes when it's Sunday-go-to-meeting.
only thing under it is a huge cover for the switch.... that can be removed...i was thinking about moving switch anyway... key folds and locks in place so I dont see it as an issue but i do like to see them... other than that its just the bar
quote:Originally posted by bacidath key folds and locks in place
Fucking swank. I've never seen anything like that but truthfully, I've not had the pleasure of playing with a BMW.
Like I said maybe the cluster could be moved down. You could also perhaps hack it apart and separate the lights and instruments out along the handlebar. I could see that being a monster pain in the ass though because you'd have to figure up cases for each of them. In at least the case of the lights in the cluster you could perhaps build a small panel to fit flush atop the tank. That tanks already pretty tall so that would most likely just ugly it up.
My suggestion is find another cluster at a scrap yard could be a piece of junk because you only need it for the wiring harness. Then go thru the wiring disconnecting one wire at a time till you find the circuit that prevents your bike from running. Then replace components as you go. Or maybe go thru the scrap yard and find a nice smaller cluster from a completely different bike then integrate the junk cluster wiring to it. Save the original of course in case of trouble up ahead.
Large has a pretty good idea. After isolating the critical circuit, I'd use the scrap yard wiring harness to put together a much smaller switch panel with a pair of digital readouts - one for the speedo, other for the tach. Set it up with indicator lamps in the middle as a vertical row of LED spots between the two digital displays, and a row of rocker switches across the bottom the case. You could condense that case to about a third it's current dimensions easily without affecting readability.
His wiring could be fucked no doubt. I didn't mention such because it seemed too obvious. He's a smart cookie and I figured he knew that already.
Trying to find replacement instruments like the speedo that will work with his bike will be difficult. Electronic gauges are notorious for being specific to the bike and the new aftermarket digital readouts are flaky at best. Replacing them with more generic analog systems can be done but like in the case of the speedo can lead to problems such as finding ones with internal gearing of the right size. Mismatch the gearing in the hub or speedo by even one tooth and it's readout is thrown completely out of whack. And then there is the sourcing up things like a new front hub equipped with a internal speedometer gear that will match his wheel size and be equipped with disk brake mounts to match his current brake system. Being that he has a pair of model specific rims that would in turn lead to both front and rear having to be replaced so they match. And then he has to be concerned with making sure the rear wheel also matches his rear brake system.
I've run into that cascading effect in working on bikes before and it's an absolute hell in the making. One small change results in a dozen or more changes down the line.